The sun was glittering off the surface of Loch Fyne as I left my lovely BnB in Inveraray this morning. I had eaten a fine breakfast (a photo of which had partly influenced my booking decision!) and I was ready for a ride of approaching 40 miles to Oban, the main town and ferry port in the northwest of Scotland. I had an appointment when I arrived there with a journalist from the Oban Times, so I didn’t want to be late!
It didn’t take long to leave Inveraray behind. Although it is the only place of substance for many miles, it is not large. It is a planned, lakeside town of whitewashed buildings, with a large church tower, a couple of hotels, and an old jail, now a museum, and you turn through an ornamental archway to take the road away from the lakeshore to Oban. It’s a delightful spot in good weather, and – judging by the number of guests in the fancy hotel restaurant last night – a popular place for a night away. I could see why.
The road to Oban was quiet and it undulated through valleys between the mountains, emerging after twelve miles at the foot of the tall and imposing peak of Ben Cruachan (famous for having a power station inside it), at the top of the twenty mile length of Loch Awe. Once again, I had to skirt around the oblique angles of a loch shore, as Loch Awe broadens at its top end into a big triangle of open water. At the apex, I reached the somewhat busier A85, Oban’s main link to the outside world, and turned for the coast. The road hugs the lakeshore, at one point running on stilts above the water, and offers wonderful views. There are islands in the lake and one contains the romantic ruins of Kilchurn Castle. In the village of Lochawe, right by the lake, stands the unusual St Conan’s Kirk, which I remember visiting on a family holiday 40 years ago when I was learning to drive. It is a most unusual building, incorporating a melange of architectural styles that somehow manage to work together despite not really belonging in the same place. I poked my nose in for ten minutes, confident in my rate of progress to date. There is a sumptuous apse of mock Norman arches offering views of the loch, as well as a cathedral like cloister and a crypt. Quite a place.
With twelve miles to go to Oban I was relieved of the main road and given the option of a delightful and narrow back road that runs through hills and farms, over cattle grids, and past small lakes and herds of highland cattle, all the way to Oban itself. I saw perhaps four more cars. The views back where I had come from of Ben Cruachan were superb. And then, just like that, I was in Oban and faced with queues of traffic. Nothing desperate, you understand, but still a bit of a jolt.
I like Oban and it’s starting to feel like an old friend. I have caught and disembarked from many a ferry here in recent years. There is always colour and activity in the lovely, sheltered bay and I watched at least four Calmac ferries come and go in the 90 minutes I was in town. It can get very busy in summer, but today it felt more manageable. The sun was shining and it was bright and breezy, but warm enough to sit outside without extra clothes. I made for the North pier and rendezvoused with Jodie, a young reporter from the local newspaper. She was interested to interview me about my soon-to-be-published book “The Man Who Cycled Every Map” and it was a lucky chance that we could do it in person, rather than over the phone. We chatted at length about my 2022 OS maps cycling adventure, and I answered many questions. Then we set up a video interview on the pier. The time flew. I look forward to seeing the results. All publicity is gratefully received. I’m not used to being a published author!
I could have stayed longer, but I knew I didn’t have time. The race against the sunset is going to be a daily challenge for me now. Fort William was still well over forty miles away and I wanted to get there by 7pm. It was almost 3pm now. Time to ride. The good news is that you can get most of the way there along a very well made cycle path. The main road is never far away, but cyclists can follow the course of an old railway that runs up the side of Loch Linnhe all the way to the Ardgour ferry at Corran, leaving just eight miles of road riding. It was a stunning ride; truly beautiful all the way, with views across the loch to the mountains and islands further west. The weather stayed bright all the way and I felt I was seeing some of the best of Scotland today. It was an absolute pleasure.
Fort William duly arrived in the fading daylight and I climbed the steep hillside to find my budget accommodation. It wasn’t glamorous but it was a bed and a shower. You generally get what you pay for! Over dinner I made a plan for tomorrow. The good weather was due to end – and stay ended for a few days. It was time to head back south. I worked out I could get an early train to Glasgow, cycle the missing part of my journey to Lockerbie, and then get another evening train home all in the same day! Not bad. The sun would be shining in Hathersage the day after, offering cycling opportunities in another direction. I could come back up to the Highlands just as soon as things improved. I probably didn’t have time to complete this leg now in any case, due to other commitments, so I may as well follow the sun. It’s complicated, but as long as I keep cycling, I think we can get this all done in October. Every day done is one less to do!
