Maps 84, 85 & 86 – the last of Scotland

Today I have once again reconnected with family who I haven’t seen very often over the years. We were up late chatting, so my post will be necessarily brief. Sorry about that.

It was another day of great cycling. About 85 miles. Quiet roads, pleasant countryside, nice towns (Kirkcudbright, Castle Douglas, Dumfries, Annan, Brampton) and a cool castle. The predominant building material around here on both sides of the border is red sandstone. In Castle Douglas I watched swans swimming in Carlingwark Loch, and then grabbed a quick cup of tea. While I drank it, I was surprised to see that right here in the town centre was a small petrol station that still offered attended service. I wasn’t even sure it was still open until a steady stream of vehicles pulled up to the rather dated forecourt and, one by one, were filled up by the same lady, who kept appearing from inside an old building. A little further down the same road was a modern self-service place, which I am sure had lower prices. I thought those days were over. I felt quite nostalgic for an era of motoring I barely remember.

I had a very good lunch in Dumfries by the River Nith and its many bridges, in the excellent Frothy Bike cafe. The weather had been quite cloudy; but improved as the day went on. My afternoon ride was under sunny skies. All very acceptable.

With about 20 miles to go, I left Scotland at Gretna Green. I will be back one day; but not in this journey. I crossed the broad expanse of the Solway Firth, alongside the noise of the M74, and then beyond through flat lanes to Brampton and finally up, to end my day in the heather-clad North Pennines, in a very sparsely populated area just in Northumberland. You might call it the middle of nowhere. Or you might call it Halton-Lea-Gate. Either way, it is where my auntie lives. She used to live just down the road from me in the Peak District. But they moved 5 years ago. This is my second visit here, both by bike. It makes a very good stopping point on my way to the coast. But that is tomorrow, and now I must sleep on my very comfortable inflatable bed.