A pattern seems to be emerging: I get up and have breakfast as early as I can, pack, faff about, and start cycling a bit later than intended. This is followed by a day of cycling through glorious countryside in beautiful weather, and then a final dash to reach my destination in the fading light, which I typically just about manage. Today took on this recognisable form from the off and when I got moving in what looked like the best conditions, it turned out to be really quite surprisingly cold! Another sign that the year is getting old and the seasons are changing. I have been incredibly lucky with the weather so far; but for most of today I wore more clothes and thicker gloves, and was glad of them. But it was still a delight and the scenery of mid Wales continues to enthral.
My first section today was as far as the small book town of Hay-on-Wye, right on the English border. Every May, Hay hosts a literary festival that has become a major event. The narrow streets are lined with many bookshops, galleries and nice places to eat and drink. It has a lovely feel to it, especially in today’s now much warmer sun, and I vowed to return after my morning coffee stop. The river Wye offers great canoeing opportunities and the Black Mountains are right next to the town, so there are two reasons to come back, as if more were needed.
The next section took me further down the Wye valley into England and Herefordshire. It got a little more gentle, but still undulating and easy on the eye. Before I reached Hereford, my route took me along lanes to the north that passed through quiet farming country, over the smaller River Lugg and through a series of generally charming but otherwise unremarkable villages. I stopped in one for a late lunch at the fancy modern village store cum cafe, and sat outside in the sun during the warmest part of the day. Then it was up and down some pretty sizeable hills to the small town of Bromyard, which preserves a range of old half timbered buildings, and more big hills to take me into the very pleasant Teme valley, with views west back towards the Clee Hills, which I crossed a few days ago.
This is hop growing country, and you can see the wooden frames they are grown on set out in the fields. I reached the village of Great Witley, home to the ruined stately pile of Witley Court, with its adjacent estate church, “the finest Georgian Church in England”, or so it claims. I visited this place on the way to Exmoor a year ago, and found the great hall a compelling and atmospheric ruin of what must have been a truly magnificent Italianate mansion. It was damaged by fire in 1937. The main intact building is the impressive church, whose golden cupola today shone brilliantly in the afternoon sun. But the most memorable feature by far was the fountain of Perseus and Andromeda, which is worth a visit on its own, and is in fully working order. See it performing if you can.
But today time was my enemy and as I got closer to the M5 and the bigger towns of Worcester and Droitwich, the traffic increased noticeably. At the top of a long climb, I pulled off the road to allow cars to pass and was unable to rejoin the road until the first gap appeared on my side a good 5 minutes later. I certainly hadn’t missed that all day. Escaping once again onto quieter lanes, I fiddled my way round the back of Droitwich’s many new housing developments and eventually reached my Auntie’s house, in Studley, just as the last of the evening light was starting to fade. Studley was once known as a centre of needle manufacturing, as was my home village, Hathersage, in Derbyshire. The first such mills in Hathersage were set up by a businessman who relocated from Studley. Small world.
All in all another very satisfying day with a lovely, hospitable end (including roast potatoes! Yum!). The weather continues to make the countryside I am passing through look close to its best, and I am constantly reminded now beautiful and full of interest and variety our island truly is. Seeing it from a bicycle allows you to appreciate this more slowly. Today, I managed 95 miles of it, and it took me up almost 6,000 feet of climbs; so don’t go thinking this part of the country is remotely flat. This was as hilly a day overall as any I have ridden throughout the entire trip, in fact. Except yesterday, that is. Tomorrow will be less demanding; but just as far, I think. So time for some sleep!
