There are times when travelling by bicycle is much better done west to east than the other way around. In Britain, for the most part, that has to do with the prevailing wind. Today, as we made our way along the North Wales coast from Llandudno, on the spectacular national cycle route 5, I was especially pleased about this. Had we been going the other way, I suspect we might have given up. The churning sea was an angry grey colour and the waves crashed into the all too adjacent sea wall. Flood defence walls had been set in place. It was exhilarating and not a little daunting; but thank goodness the strong wind carried us forward in the direction we needed to go. We had the same help yesterday, luckily. So we can thank the Ordnance Survey for numbering their maps left to right. I’m not sure they necessarily had this in mind; but well done them!
Also like yesterday, there was a bit of rain around. The BBC weather forecast told us to expect 36% chance of rain most of the day. I think we got considerably less than that, and a good amount of warm sunshine in between. Whatever was going on, you knew with this wind it would not be long before it blew away to be replaced by something different. We also got pretty good at sheltering under whatever was available if the showers got heavy. This might be a large tree in a churchyard, or a cafe, or a bus shelter. But we couldn’t avoid the wet roads and the sand the sea had deposited on the cycle path, and for the first time in ages the bikes and the bags got wet and a bit dirty. This inevitably has a detrimental effect on moving parts like gears and will require some attention when I get home tomorrow, no doubt. My ride tomorrow, while hilly, is not the longest and so I should have time afterwards. Let’s hope so. Under current plans, in a couple more days I will begin a full month on the road, without the likelihood of any more visits home until November. Under such circumstances these kind of things become more complicated.
Llandudno is a special place. It has a long, graceful, curved promenade that follows the east shore right around the bay between the two massive headlands that are the Little and Great Orme. All along the land side for a mile or more are a run of white painted Victorian hotels and guest houses, some with turrets and cupolas, all culminating in the grand old Victorian pier at the northern end. Local by-laws prevent any shops or amusements from interrupting this lovely curve of buildings, so there are no neon signs or gaudy shopfronts to spoil the effect. Twinkly lights are strung between all the lampposts along the promenade. The whole scene is quite endearing.
I have long and nostalgic connections with this area of North Wales because for my whole childhood it was where my grandparents lived, just over the other side of the Little Orme. From their bungalow you could look out in this direction at the Orme, or east over the sea towards Colwyn Bay, or west to the mountains. This morning’s ride took me along the coast through Rhos-on-Sea, past the local beach that we walked to many times as kids, and also the paddling pool where we spent many happy hours. Further round the promenade a lot of building work was underway that will improve the beach and the cycle path eventually. Beyond that we passed the site of Colwyn Bay pier, which has been lost to history, along with the little train that once ran along the promenade here. Oh well.
We battled on along a section of cycle path that has exclusive access to the sea front while the road goes up and over the headland high above. After a few more miles we were passing hundreds of static caravans in the lead up to Rhyl, which stands on one of the few areas of genuinely flat land in the whole of North Wales. Rhyl is a very different place to Llandudno and certainly lacks its genteel air. But it doesn’t pretend to be anything other than a fun seaside resort, and the focus is more on entertainment than beauty. That said, there is a superb new swing bridge that you cross on the cycle path over the mouth of the River Clwyd, made to look like a sail. Cool.
Eventually, after we cycled along a path across Prestatyn golf course, our coastal route came to an end and we ventured inland along hilly lanes that slowly led us across towards the border with England at Chester. Along the way, from our more lofty position, we could see both the Wirral peninsula, behind the broad River Dee estuary, and rising behind it the city of Liverpool, it’s huge Anglican Cathedral silhouetted on the far horizon. It was hard to believe I was there just 3 days ago!
We had to join busier roads for the last few miles into Chester. At an undefined point along a road through dreary suburbs, the Welsh road signage suddenly stopped and we were welcomed to the historic city of Chester. A mile or so later and we were surrounded by sturdy red sandstone buildings and double decker shops with black and white half-timbered sides (called “The Rows”), and cobbled streets. It is an attractive place full of history, dating back to the Romans (who called it Deva). The old city is ringed by red sandstone defensive walls and you can still walk right around them. At the heart of it all is the medieaval Cathedral, with its massive, red, castle-like central tower. But my favourite part of Chester is the large, ornate Victorian clock that stands over an archway where the walls cross the main road leading away to the east. As a lifelong lover of clocks, this is an image I have long known and it never disappoints.
From Chester it was possible to complete the last two hours of cycling along quiet country lanes that took us close to Beeston Castle, a mediaeval fortress that commands the Cheshire Plain from a wooded hill, visible from miles away. We visited last year. The views from the top were truly stupendous.
Journey’s end today was an overnight stop with my mum’s cousin Anne and her husband, Mike. A lovely meal was provided and we spent a great evening catching up after a gap of many years. This adventure continues to provide me with these opportunities to rekindle dormant relationships, and I value every time it happens. especially when it includes rhubarb crumble and lashings of warm custard!
